You hit a strong, confident drive. Good contact. Solid weight transfer. But what happens?
Your opponent blocks it like they’ve been practicing for this moment their entire life.
It barely comes back over the net—low, soft, maybe with a little underspin—and suddenly, you’re the one scrambling.
At the intermediate level, blocked drives are one of the most common frustrations in doubles.
This guide covers it all—from what’s going wrong, to how the pros handle it, to how you can start turning drives into strategic weapons instead of wasted swings.
SECTION 1: Understanding Why Your Drives Are Getting Blocked
Let’s start by diagnosing what’s happening.
Common Mistakes That Lead to Easy Blocks:
| Mistake | Explanation | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Flat, fast, no topspin | Ball stays on one plane and travels straight into the paddle zone | Easy block or counter |
| Driving into forehand “strike zone” | Hitting around waist/chest on dominant side | Block comes back with pace or placement |
| Driving while off-balance or moving backwards | Poor energy transfer, less control | Ball floats or lands too high |
| Not moving in after the drive | You give up the kitchen advantage | Opponent drops it short, you can’t get there |
| Repetitive pattern | Always drive the third shot or attack too often | Opponent anticipates, camps the volley |
Let’s look at what the best players do differently.
SECTION 2: How Pros Drive Smarter – The 4 Pillars of Drive Effectiveness
The top players rarely drive to end the point. In doubles, especially at higher levels, they drive to set up the next shot. That mindset shift changes everything.
Here’s how they make drives work:
PILLAR 1: Use Topspin to Create “Net-Diving Drives”
Topspin lets you hit harder and higher while still pulling the ball down into the court. The benefits?
- Ball drops low on opponent’s side, making blocks harder.
- Bounces stay lower or kick up unpredictably.
- Higher margin for error over the net.
How to Add Topspin:
| Element | Pro Tip |
|---|---|
| Grip | Semi-Western or Eastern for topspin-friendly angle |
| Swing Path | Low-to-high, brushing the back of the ball |
| Contact Point | Slightly in front of your body |
| Paddle Angle | Closed face, not flat |
| Mental Cue | “Brush up the back of the ball, not through it” |
Top players like Ben Johns and JW Johnson use topspin on most of their drives—even when taking pace off. That “dipping” ball is tough to block cleanly.
Watch JW Johnson dominate the kitchen line with his signature low-dipping drives:
PILLAR 2: Target Specific Weak Zones
You’re not just hitting hard—you’re hitting smart.
Use this targeting matrix to choose your drive location:
| Target Zone | Why It Works | Use When… |
|---|---|---|
| Chicken Wing (paddle-side shoulder) | Awkward to block, splits backhand/forehand decision | Opponent is set but upright |
| Backhand hip | Forces awkward body turn or mis-hits | Opponent has weaker backhand |
| Feet/Knees | Forces upward contact, high error rate | Opponent is stationary or slow to crouch |
| Middle seam | Causes partner hesitation or confusion | In rec play, or mixed with shaky communication |
| Sideline | Opens court if opponent leans middle | Best after establishing middle/shoulder drives |
Avoid: Driving to an opponent’s dominant forehand in front of their torso. It’s like feeding a dragon.
PILLAR 3: Control Pace Based on Situation
More power isn’t always better.
| Drive Type | Speed | Ideal Use |
|---|---|---|
| Full-speed power drive | 90–100% | Short returns, chest-high sitters, one opponent back |
| Controlled topspin drive | 65–80% | Most third shots, when both opponents are at the net |
| Off-speed roller | 50–65% | Adds variety, pulls opponent off balance or creates indecision |
Pro Insight: You want to control the tempo of the rally, not just slap the ball. A 70% drive with perfect spin and placement is far more effective than a 100% flat missile into a paddle.
PILLAR 4: Move Forward Intelligently After the Drive
This is where most intermediates fall short. You hit the drive… and then what?
The difference between “driving to win” and “driving to work” is what you do next.
| Movement Principle | Description |
|---|---|
| Follow your shot | Don’t stand still. Get 2–3 steps in, at least into transition zone. |
| Split step as they contact the ball | Helps you adjust to block, drop, or pop-up |
| Keep paddle in front | Expect a counterattack or block |
| Use momentum wisely | Don’t overrun your partner or lose spacing |
| Mirror movement | Communicate so your team moves as a unit |
Team Tip: After a drive, you don’t both need to crash the net immediately—but you both should be moving in rhythm. Avoid “1 up, 1 back” chaos unless you’re using a staggered strategy intentionally.
SECTION 3: What to Do When Your Drives Still Get Blocked
You’ve tried topspin. You’ve targeted the chicken wing. But the other team’s blocks are just… too good.
Now what?
| Option | When to Use It | Execution Focus |
|---|---|---|
| Drop shot (3rd or 5th) | Opponents are set at the NVZ, block well | Soft hands, land in kitchen, aim middle |
| Reset the rally | You’re in transition zone, drive came back low | Block or half-volley into kitchen to buy time |
| Mix in dinks | Opponents are playing off your tempo | Engage in soft rally, bait a pop-up |
| Lob | Opponents are leaning forward | Use topspin lob, not floaty high-ball |
| Drive + Drop combo | After a controlled drive yields a neutral block | Follow-up with a gentle drop and advance |
Drill Idea: Set up a ball machine or drilling partner. Alternate drive-drop patterns:
- Third-shot drive
- Fifth-shot drop
- Kitchen approach
This builds rhythm and touch transitions—just like the pros.
Watch this quick breakdown of the Drive-Drop Combo—a powerful tactic where you drive the third shot low to bait a short reply, then follow up with a soft drop and move in:
SECTION 4: When to Drive, Drop, Lob, or Deceive — Real-Game Shot Selection Cheat Sheet
Let’s bring all the strategy together with a practical guide for in-game decision-making.
Use this shot selection chart to decide what to hit based on the return and opponent positions:
| Situation | Best Option | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| Return is short and high | Drive (power or topspin roller) | Gives you time and space to attack with forward momentum |
| Return is deep with low bounce | Drop | Harder to hit a successful drive; a drop neutralizes positioning |
| One opponent up, one still back | Drive at the back player | Keeps them pinned; opens space if their partner creeps in |
| Both opponents at the net | Drop or Lob | Forces them to hit up (drop) or retreat (lob), breaking their wall |
| Opponent is reaching in or out of position | Attack to chicken wing or feet | Exploits poor balance or footwork; often leads to pop-up |
| You’ve hit multiple drives with no result | Change pace: drop, lob, or off-speed roller | Prevents predictability and disrupts timing |
| Opponent is anticipating a speedup | Deceptive dink, lob, or off-speed push | Fakes them out by changing expected tempo, not faking your body motion |
Check out this dink to dink-to-speedup fake where you inject a surprise speedup off a slightly high ball:
SECTION 5: Pro-Level Scenarios to Study and Emulate
Want to really master this? Learn from the best.
| Pro Match | Situation to Study | What to Look For |
|---|---|---|
| Ben Johns vs JW Johnson | Third shot drives to shoulder, followed by controlled resets | Watch Ben’s use of topspin and targeting |
| Anna Leigh Waters & Catherine Parenteau | Mid-rally speedups and resets | Note how often ALW fakes or changes pace mid-rally |
| Riley Newman’s Fake Drive Drop | Used to freeze opponent and catch them leaning | Classic bait-and-switch in fast hands battle |
Watch Riley Newman look ready to smash or drive, but instead surprises with a soft drop into the kitchen:
SECTION 6: Bonus – Troubleshooting Drive Problems
Here’s a quick table to help diagnose and fix specific issues in your game:
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Drives land in net | Swing too flat, bad contact point | Open paddle face slightly, hit earlier |
| Drives sail long | No topspin or poor follow-through | Brush up more, contact in front |
| Drives get blocked short | Too much pace, no depth | Reduce power, add arc or spin |
| You get jammed after drive | Didn’t recover, paddle down | Reset to athletic stance, paddle up |
| Partner doesn’t move with you | Poor communication | Call “drive coming” and set expectations |
Drives Are a Setup, Not a Sledgehammer
If you take away one thing from this guide, let it be this:
“In doubles, a great drive doesn’t end the point—it creates the next one.”
The goal is to apply pressure, disrupt their rhythm, and put your team in a better position. That might mean drawing a pop-up, setting up a drop, or just buying time to reach the kitchen.
Adapt your drives. Adjust your targets. Change your rhythm. Watch the blockers get uncomfortable.
And when you catch them flat-footed with a chicken wing drive they can’t block?
That’s when it all comes together.
